Tuesday, October 7, 2008

october





dry offshores and Lucas meet in the shorie.
shorter days, longer barrels...

Sunday, October 5, 2008

big rock dude ranch



a few late waves at the rock today...
a place of significance in the history
of tube riding and board design.
for every pro that shows up here these days
with a film crew (JT etc etc etc) there are a dozen
local kids who shine brighter...two of whom,
Max and Marco, are deep in the guts of the
barrels shown here. hiding, as usual.

Friday, October 3, 2008

Stranger than Paradise






Dick & Jack, Lake Erie, NY, west swell, east wind.
Boards are ancestral echoes from Simmons's adze
...planing hulls work very well in fresh water.

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

speeding and lonely....

somewhere in new york...
humble apologies to nysff.
5'1" bauguess dualie hullster
pics by franco




Sunday, September 21, 2008

two fins, two coasts...



5'6" Lis sends a small SE swell towards Orange County...
and Ashton slots the 5'1" mini hull in Jersey hurricane funness.
thanks jet 1a for jers pic.

Friday, September 19, 2008

genetic spacechild





lucas and friend ride the Griffin in Simmons's shorie today.
The Griffin was shaped by 13 year old...Griffin.
in 1939 Dick Lindville rode a foam kneeboard out here...
thats right...foam...in 1939.
he also rode a 6 foot redwood squaretail that doubled
as a "freeboard" behind the powerboats at the beach club...
lil' tid bits...

Sunday, September 14, 2008

step outta line



the man comes and takes you away