Thursday, August 2, 2012

Theology & Geometry

 
“The ironic thing about that program is that it is supposed to be an exemplum to the youth of our nation. I would very much like to know what the Founding Fathers would say if they could see these children being debauched to further the cause of Clearasil. However, I always suspected that democracy would come to this. A firm rule must be imposed upon our nation before it destroys itself. The United States needs some theology and geometry, some taste and decency. I suspect we are teetering on the edge of the abyss.”

-       Ignatius J. Reilly
-       A Confederacy of Dunces
-       John Kennedy Toole, 1963
 







July 31st, 2012, continued...




Heat 6, Round of 48, Nike U.S. Open of Surfing

July 31st, 2012

Kelly Slater
Michel Bourez
Stu Kennedy
Sebastien Zietz

Fuelie:

Here’s Kelly…he’s coming up against Stuey Kennedy. We saw a good performance by him yesterday.

(Slater puts on red jersey, walks through competitors area, ready to paddle out for the heat. Cut to close up of Kelly’s board)

Dino:

He’s riding a 4-fin with a little trailer fin. Probably not a bad choice for these conditions.

Fuelie:

Well, he has been at the forefront of experimentation with boards and fins…

Stu Kennedy is shown putting on white jersey. Stu picks up his Daniel Thomson modern planing hull and prepares to paddle out for the heat.)

Fuelie:

What about this board, Dino? Check out Stuey Kennedy’s board.

Dino:

He’s going out on a limb, isn’t he? That boards a little different than anything I’ve seen.
But aww, y’know…

Fuelie:

He surfed well yesterday…

Dino

It’ll probably go well today, really fast I imagine…

Fuelie

We saw him win his heat yesterday with this…just really fast full rotation air 360…it definitely looks a lot more like a wakeboard than a surfboard…but its been working for him.

Dino:

If I’m not mistaken I think that board was made by Daniel Thomson, who is a guy that grew up in Lennox Head. His father is a famous surfer from the area. Daniel is really a brilliant surfer himself…Daniel’s from the same area as Stu…and he rides those boards in all types of conditions. It’ll be interesting to see how he (Stu) performs on that type of design.

Fuelie:

Well he surfed really well yesterday, and he’s going to need to surf really well today, because he’s up against Kelly Slater….

(Dino & Fuelie discuss the inconsistent, small waves and how it may effect the competitors and equipment choices…)

Fuelie

Yesterday we did see that Stu’s board went through the flat sections like it had a motor on it. It just kept planing right through those flat sections, and he was able to link up to the inside almost every time. So this is going to be a very exciting last heat…

Fuelie:

Kelly Slater is red…Stu Kennedy in white…this should be a great heat. Barton Lynch, welcome back.

(Fuelie and Barton talk about Slater’s genius and sense of pageantry & showmanship)

Dino:

This is Kelly right here, starting his account…wow looks like he’s on a really fast board.

Barton:

He’s got a quad but he’s got that little keel trailer back there that he likes to put in the middle for stability. There’s Seabass…oh no, I mean that’s Stuey Kennedy, on that unusual looking board…aw, its strange looking…but lots of speed. (Stu flies across the flat spot rail to rail and throws a clean reverse on a tiny wave) He throws it there, pulls off an air reverse, little one on the inside, and uh this heat is off and racing. Interesting to watch Kelly on that wave. How loose and fluid he is through the upper body, there is no tension involved…

(Seabass rips a good left but can’t connect the reform)

(Barton & Dino discuss Slater’s fluidity & general super-human surfing ability, competitive prowess etc. Slater gets a wave, falls on 2nd turn)

(Seabass gets a wave falls on 3rd turn then gets a right, nice air reverse, surfing very well)

(Dino and Barton discuss why Michel Bourez got a 7, the high score of the heat, on a somewhat average ride.)

(Stu gets a left, blows tail on a vertical snap then connects the reform and goes right, gaining speed the whole time)

Barton:

Stuey Kennedy…geez, that board is so responsive, isn’t it?

Dino: Do you think that board, the way looks, could hinder the scores with the judges?

Barton:

The aesthetics of that board, for me…it doesn’t do it for me. (Stu connects the reform right after the snap, flies down the line and ends with a clean air-reverse as Barton is talking. Compared to Bourez’ wave, this ride should be an 8. Stu gets a 4.5 for it) I mean…I look at the board and I think gee, it’d be nice if it had a nose on it. With a nose you have that little bit extra with everything that’s going on so, yeah I do think so (the way it looks hinders scoring)

Dino:

Yeah, you notice it more when it goes vertical if it’s got a point to it. But that’s kind of unfair, really, if you think about it.

Barton:

Yeah, if you just watch what he’s doing, it is incredibly responsive and fast and its got this twitchiness to it where he looks like he could just do anything at any time on that board.

(Slater gets a good left but does not connect the reform)

(Stu gets a left and then connects the reform right again…)

Barton:

Great ride for Stuey Kennedy, look at that board…so quick and responsive…comes unstuck on that little 360 attempt at the end, but aw…from a surfing perspective, Stuey Kennedy has got everything going that anyone else in this heat has, and maybe even a little more speed and a little more vibrancy in that short, whippy board that he’s riding…

Fuelie:

Yeah, it’s a very very fast board…but he’s sitting in 4th, he does have a few scores yet to drop..

(Slater gets a good left, connects reform right, best wave of heat. Nothing too technical, especially for him. He gets a 9.0)

(Stu gets a right, does blistering carve to tail slide followed immediately by another small snap. Wave completely vanishes in the gutter and he can’t connect the reform))

Barton:

Nice work by Stuey Kennedy

Dino

Wow, that was impressive getting that second move in after that big tail-slide…lets see if he can get the reform, nope, but great surfing there by Stuart.

Fuelie:

He doesn’t seem to be getting the scores though. He’s doing some great maneuvers but the scores aren’t reflecting it.

Barton:

Is it aesthetics? I mean, quite honestly its great to see a nose out in front of someone, getting high on the face,…(Seabass does a really nice turn on a right, surfing very well) this is a great little heat here…

Fuelie:

And the crowd is building up on the beach, waiting for Kelly Slater…it doesn’t matter how he finishes, there will be thousands of people waiting for him.

(Stu gets another left, rips two big snaps on the outside and connects the reform and keeps doing turns all the way to the beach)

Dino:

Wow.

Fuelie:

Stuey Kennedy is surfing so well here…he needs a 9 as Kelly Slater has taken the lead.

Dino:

This wave of Stu’s here, if you think about Michel Bourez’ 7 earlier in the heat, I mean this has to be pretty close if not better. I mean two big snaps and reformed it and did two more maneuvers on the inside…he didn’t really have that one maneuver as powerful as what Michel had, but definitely a good score. (Seabass gets another good one)

(Dino and Barton praise Seabass’ technique)

Barton:

These next scores will tell us how the judges feel about Stuey Kennedy’s board…

Fuelie:

I don’t think you can really fault his surfing…

Barton

No, I don’t think so either, its been a great performance.

Fuelie:

But it comes down to the board…sometimes its just timing.

(Some scores come in for Stu. They are low.)

Dino:

Well the judges aren’t buying it Barton, they’re not feeling that board.

Barton:

No, it doesn’t look like it, a 5.37 for Stuey Kennedy…here he is up again…trying to make something happen…

Fuelie:

And with 5 seconds remaining, here comes the king, Kelly Slater…this is gonna be a victory lap. (mob forms on the beach as heat ends)

Fuelie:

Great surfing also by Seabass and Stuey Kennedy…and we’ll be back with the final results:

Results come in.

Fuelie:

Wow.

Stuey Kennedy, on his final waves, he gets the score! He gets a 7 and a 5.57. So the judges in the end, they give it to Stuey Kennedy. Wow, talk about an upset right there, Michel Bourez bundled into 3rd, Sebastien Zeitz in 4th.

Dino:

Well, we were kinda wondering when that score was gonna drop, we thought they were gonna write him off due to his equipment…but he deserved a really good score for that performance.

Barton:

Yeah, seemed like they had trapped him there with those low scores but surprise, surprise. They gave him a 7…what a great result for Stuey Kennedy.

Fuelie:

Its great to see that Stuey Kennedy got the reward ..its a big risk when you bring out a new piece of weird equipment.

Barton:

It certainly is…but he stayed active until the end, and there was a desperation in what he was doing, you could see that he wanted it, he was working hard for it, and he got rewarded.

Dino:

The 7-point ride was a great ride. He didn’t have that one big turn like Michel had, but he had multiple turns.

Barton:

Yeah, you had speed and fluidity and action going on all the time with Stuey’s waves…

Fuelie:

But Kelly Slater was the man here who dominated…

















Tuesday, July 31, 2012



July 31st, 2012. 63 years later...to the day. An appropriate date for Stu Kennedy to put Daniel Thomson's modern planing hull to the test. Results: 1st Kelly Slater 2nd Stu Kennedy 3rd Michel Bourez 4th Sebastien Zietz

 July 31st, 1949. Bob Simmons at Malibu. Dual keel, concave planing hull with foam core and plywood veneer laminate.


Nike US Open of Surfing Heat 11 round of 96. 7/30/2012


Heat 11, Round of 96, Nike U.S. Open of Surfing, July 30th 2012
Stu Kennedy wins heat riding modern planing hull designed and shaped by Daniel Thomson.

Commentary:

Fuelie:
Welcome back to Huntington Beach and the Nike U.S. Open of Surfing for 2012…heat 11 of the round of 96 and in red is Matt Wilkinson, Yadin Nicol is in white, Hodei Collazo in black, and in blue is going to be Stuey Kennedy of Australia. Joining me in commentary is 12 year veteran of the world tour is super-coach and big wave charger Mike Parsons, and, one of our favorite human beings in the world contest director and also world tour veteran Pat O’Connell….now we saw there Stuey Kennedy who is riding some interesting boards, we saw him at the Nike Lowers Pro as well…
Snips:
Yeah, interesting stuff, he’s got the sorta sawed off nose effect. The rail line still holds true, but he loses like that last 5”, it’ll be interesting to see how it goes for him…as we see Yadin Nicol, last year’s finalist, throw an air-reverse there…but interesting choice of equipment there for Stu Kennedy and fun to see these guys experimenting with something different…
Pat:
Yeah absolutely, and as the wind has come on now there’s a little bump on it…it actually seems pretty smart, really, without all that nose you’re not going to catch, you’re not gonna hit that bump…(Stu gets a wave and does a floater…) I’m watching here as he (Stu) really got across that section really, really, well…the board definitely did not hold him back. It looked like, if anything, he got a little bit more squirt.
Snips:
Almost looks like theres a little bit of vee in the nose, or its cupped to keep the nose free, and aw, like I said, fun to see these guys experimenting with equipment and we’ll see how it goes for him.
Fuelie:
Scoreline right now- Stu Kennedy, with that unique surfboard, looks more like a wakeboard, is out in front…
Snips:
There’s Stu Kennedy, wow, that was a quick, vertical blast off the top on that very unconventional surfboard, it looks like Cheyne Horan’s board from the 80s the way it moves…(Stu is skating across the big flat spot, rail to rail, gaining speed)
Pat:
He’s really flying on it…
Snips:
He’s going on it, isn’t he? Wow, nice snap there, so bringing some good energy to that wave, Stu Kennedy, I think that’s gonna be a good score…
Pat:
I think that’s his best wave so far…
Fuelie:
Lets take a look at Stu Kennedy up and riding now…
Pat:
He’s getting a lot of speed-aww-does a real nice air-reverse, that was great.
Snips:
That was fantastic.
Pat:
Considering the conditions…but he falls out the back..does he make that?
Snips:
Oh absolutely. He rides out of it clean, he gets in front of the white water, he has total control. That’s definitely deemed a completed maneuver…and its gonna be a really good score. He’s gonna rocket himself into an advancing spot based on the strength of that one move. That was the best move of the heat so far.
Fuelie:
Lets take another look at Stu Kennedy’s wave…and Snips…so much speed…
Snips:
Yeah, that was incredible. Full rotation, throws it towards the beach…way up in the excellent score range. I mean, that was so technical for the conditions out there…
Fuelie:
Super innovative maneuver there , an 8.17…one of the top scores of the day….
Snips:
…he’s surfing pretty inspired and making a pretty good statement I think. He obviously wants it, he’s bringing a lot of passion to the heat, and he’s looking good…
Fuelie:
Do you think, Pat, that this is a board that any average surfer could ride? Or do you think there’s something difficult in riding that board?
Pat:
No, no, I absolutely think its something that the average would like…a lot of these guys ride boards and they funnel their way down to the average surfer. I mean, without the nose it looks a little strange, and sometimes when I watch him I’m sort of looking for that nose…but if you really watch it, it looks pretty functional. As Mike says, it looks like there’s a channel through the front, and it looks like he’s getting a lot of squirt and speed…
Snips
…I just think its fun that guys are riding different stuff and experimenting during contests. Its great for us as fans and spectators to check out, y’know.
Fuelie:
…so…right now, Stuey Kennedy, who is riding the most unique surfboard of the contest, is out in front, Yadin Nicol is in 2nd, but Matt Wilkinson is within striking distance with a minute to go…but the battle now is definitely for second place…so, now Yadin Nicol moves through in second place, and Stu Kennedy, with that massive frontside air, moves through in first. He makes a strong statement.
Snips:
Yeah he really did. It was an amazing maneuver…
Post heat comments from Matt Wilkinson:
Jodi:
Stuart Kennedy was on a really strange board. Do you know anything about those boards?
Wilkinson:
Not really…I’ve seen him ride it a little bit. I dunno. I put his board under my arm this morning and it feels like nothing that I’ve ever ridden, the rails are different, the tail is different, the nose is different. Everything is just really weird on it. But he beat me. (laughs)

Saturday, July 14, 2012

Sleeping at Sea redux


June 2009. Ryan Burch and Lucas Dirkse riding short alaias. Filmed by Ryan Field in one afternoon. By summer's end Ryan, Lucas, and Snortum were on the foam Lindsay Lord Board rectangles. Music by Jalopy...Gabe, Rachel, Nachman, Justin, et al. Short alaias were made by Jon Wegener.