Sunday, September 21, 2008
two fins, two coasts...
5'6" Lis sends a small SE swell towards Orange County...
and Ashton slots the 5'1" mini hull in Jersey hurricane funness.
thanks jet 1a for jers pic.
Friday, September 19, 2008
genetic spacechild
lucas and friend ride the Griffin in Simmons's shorie today.
The Griffin was shaped by 13 year old...Griffin.
in 1939 Dick Lindville rode a foam kneeboard out here...
thats right...foam...in 1939.
he also rode a 6 foot redwood squaretail that doubled
as a "freeboard" behind the powerboats at the beach club...
lil' tid bits...
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Thursday, September 11, 2008
Sargent Elwell
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Sunday, September 7, 2008
Forgotten poem of Rohan: R.I.P. Windansea Lot
The Lot of Curren, Nelson, Simmons, Diff, and Butch is gone forever.
"where now the horse and rider? where is the horn that was blowing?
where is the helm and the hauberk, and the bright hair flowing?
where is the hand on the harpstring, and the red fire glowing?
where is the spring and the harvest, and the tall corn growing?
they have passed like rain on the mountain, like a wind in the meadow;
the days have gone down in the West behind the hills into shadow.
who shall gather the smoke of the dead wood burning,
or behold the flowing years from the sea returning?"
- forgotten poet of Rohan
Last Rites for the Windansea Lot
September 2nd, 2008, was the last day for the Windansea parking lot,
one of the most historic and sacred places in all of surfdom.
I asked Tom Ortner how he felt: "Very sad" was his answer.
Here are a few scenes from the last day of the lot as it has been
known for well over 60 years. The guardrail was put in in 1962,
before that it was telephone poles as a barrier. "Progress" creeps
on us and before we know it our heritage is lost forever.
Friday, September 5, 2008
FESTIVUS V Tonight Friday September 5th 2008
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