Sunday, September 21, 2008

two fins, two coasts...



5'6" Lis sends a small SE swell towards Orange County...
and Ashton slots the 5'1" mini hull in Jersey hurricane funness.
thanks jet 1a for jers pic.

Friday, September 19, 2008

genetic spacechild





lucas and friend ride the Griffin in Simmons's shorie today.
The Griffin was shaped by 13 year old...Griffin.
in 1939 Dick Lindville rode a foam kneeboard out here...
thats right...foam...in 1939.
he also rode a 6 foot redwood squaretail that doubled
as a "freeboard" behind the powerboats at the beach club...
lil' tid bits...

Sunday, September 14, 2008

step outta line



the man comes and takes you away

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Sargent Elwell




paid John a visit today, regaled as always with
epic tales of Simmons, Windansea, and the Sloughs
and more...then went to the mountains for last
of the summer monsoon thunderstorms. only in
san diego...

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

ride a few for the Lot



5'5" simmons inspired dualie hullster by Joe Bauguess
dodging the dozers yesterday.

Sunday, September 7, 2008

there's a feeling i get when look to the west...




Forgotten poem of Rohan: R.I.P. Windansea Lot





The Lot of Curren, Nelson, Simmons, Diff, and Butch is gone forever.

"where now the horse and rider? where is the horn that was blowing?
where is the helm and the hauberk, and the bright hair flowing?
where is the hand on the harpstring, and the red fire glowing?
where is the spring and the harvest, and the tall corn growing?
they have passed like rain on the mountain, like a wind in the meadow;
the days have gone down in the West behind the hills into shadow.
who shall gather the smoke of the dead wood burning,
or behold the flowing years from the sea returning?"

- forgotten poet of Rohan

Last Rites for the Windansea Lot





September 2nd, 2008, was the last day for the Windansea parking lot,
one of the most historic and sacred places in all of surfdom.
I asked Tom Ortner how he felt: "Very sad" was his answer.
Here are a few scenes from the last day of the lot as it has been
known for well over 60 years. The guardrail was put in in 1962,
before that it was telephone poles as a barrier. "Progress" creeps
on us and before we know it our heritage is lost forever.

Friday, September 5, 2008

FESTIVUS V Tonight Friday September 5th 2008

well, if you been to one of these you know to expect the unexpected,
like Joe Roper and Skip Frye dancing a jig together to live neo gypsy folk...
yes, it happened at the FESTIVUS...and plenty of amazing surfboards of course.