Saturday, February 27, 2010

asymmetric Alva

T.A. next pilot up for the 5'8" Ekstrom asym planing hull.

rucas gets radical

Lucas "Rucas" Dirkse on 4'8" planing hull quad.
photos by Geraldine mgotu.





Tuesday, February 23, 2010

IDIOSYNCRASIES: CHRISTIAN BEAMISH AND THE SIMMONS/CURREN GUNS

A few years ago Christian Beamish and I had a few conversations
about bringing Simmons design into a big wave board. A sort of
cross between a planing hull and a vintage Pat Curren gun.
I said I thought about that stuff a lot, but didn't have
the balls to go out in really heavy surf. Christian, however,
does have the balls, and he is currently
fulfilling his desire to build and ride a unique series
of big wave boards that use elements of the great boards
of the late 1940s and early 50's. The boards shown in these
posts were built by Christian after he took templates
and measurements from Simmons and Curren boards at
the Surfing Heritage Museum in San Clemente. They
are both dual fins.
Patrick Trefz has been documenting this passion
of Mr. Beamish for his new film, "Idiosyncrasies".
what does it all mean? it means across the board
and around the world surfers are taking back surfing
one chunk at a time...and Beamish is biting off some
really big chunks. Good work Christian.



Beamish Mavs





Beamish Todos





THE SHORES






THE SHORES "The Shores, of late, is teaching wisdom rather
than pleasure. Due to some rather hedonistic years in the
late 60's when everyone thought they owned the place, it
has slowed to a populated standstill. However, in reward
for the patient and faithful, some express tubes have
come down recently. THESE MIRACULOUS CREATURES THEN
PROCEEDED TO BUILD UP NINE POINTS OFF THE NORTHERN
SPEAKER POLE AND PEEL OFF MOST RHYTHMICALLY, EXCITING
BOTH LOCALS AND STRANGERS ALIKE, TO THE STOKING JOYS
OF THE PAST. (You'll recall the past as 6' to 8'
slight offshore spindrifters everyday including
holidays and leap years).

"Yes," DeeDee speaks "those winter waves were
second best only to pure sunshine and they do
grant decaying La Jolla a little of her lost
energy-for she is still beautiful even in
her declining years..."

But, alas, there were no lefts...

--Kurt "Archie" Ledterman, SURFER MAGAZINE 1972

requiem for the winter of 1972...the cycle repeats.
ode to to Gary Keating...Lee Bakken...

recent photos of 7'0" Ekstrom asym fish by Scott Sullivan.



Monday, February 22, 2010

lucas "prince" possum on the other trusty Rawson, the 7'10,
back in January. photo by geraldine (mother goddess of the universe)

Thursday, February 18, 2010

shoot that poison arrow...a thruster valentine.

easing the pain on valentines day...trusty old 6'9" Rawson...
see Pat? I'll have it forever. That board was stoked to get
in the water...been a while. images by Aaron Goulding jag media productions.









SATURDAY AT THE LA PALOMA IN ENCINITAS


Anna Trent Moore is the faithful & true guardian of Bud Browne's
footage and she has made a film, Wake Unto Blue,
which we are all going to see on Saturday evening at
the La Paloma. Anna is Buzzy Trent's daughter. Buzzy and
Simmons were very close, and Anna has shared some
wonderful stories about their friendship with me.

Monday, February 15, 2010






frame grabs from footage shot by ryan field. 9'0" balsa dual fin Simmons replica.

arrowing in the heartland...






balsa grabs from yesterday images by the Field Marshall.

Saturday, February 13, 2010






assorted balsa dual fin replica moments. images by scott sullivan & john slavin.