patzog trefz was here for a week...south swell was a wash out weakling,
solidifying Socal's feeble rep...southern hemi's are such a sad, tragic
spectacle of hype and bullshit these days, good sessions only happen on
the low interval under the radar stuff it seems...we hang our heads in shame
as the hype never meets the expectations. oh! for the days before commercial
surf forecasting! and the leash! when it just was what it was...but it was simmons
who started calling swells in the first place i suppose. bob, what have you done???!
little did we know werner herzog was filming just down the
street. anyway, patzog left at 3:30 am this morning to go back to santa cruz
with these testers for the crew up there. ratboy, et al... the quads and tri's are
coming close now to our goal of an aquatic skateboard....kids down here are raving,
big airs with speed and carves....slides...short & very sweet... keel quad 5'3" by
Joe Bauguess, 5'1" tri by Rusty, 5'4" quad by Hoyt Smith...simmons boards appeared in santa cruz
early on...peter cole busted his dual fin on the cliffs at the lane in the early
fifties...when peter talks about sunset beach he talks about the sloughs, windansea,
and the lane as leading him to sunset beach...showing him the way to "dynamic ocean"
deep water, shifting...living power...says he drove right past spots that did not
have those qualities.....also shown here is david carson who picked up a tester
for the caribbean...but alas i must stay here and finish volume one...
writing, writing, writing.
