Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Bitter Sweet Blacks Beach Rambling
don't get down to Blacks
much anymore. its just weird
paddling out a place you've been
surfing for 39 years to find
150 guys out...and they all seem
to know each other...and then
they hustle you like you're a
new jack. like...who the fuck is this guy???
you ain't USCD surf team, dude.
Old age is tough.
Blacks is still beautiful
though. i know the names
of all the trails...and i know
who named them...so what, right?
now they've got a name for every peak on the beach.
middle peak? south mids? huh? proper Blacks is three things:
The Road, The Point, and THE NORTH PEAK.
lemme tell you about October '74...September '75
10 foot Southern Hemi reverse Honolua with a 95 degree Santa Ana
for a week straight. it has NOT happened again,
so when you miss it, you really do miss it.
i can't imagine what a swell like that would
look like now...5000 people in the water?
'76...'77...1980 was good. '83 would kick your ass no matter
who you were. Pascuales with cold water.
geez...its 2009...what do i expect?
uncrowded Blacks? the world
was supposed to end a while ago
anyway. all this stuff is gravy.
this session with Bracker
wasn't too bad. it was much better
at the Shores this day. Oh, and in '74 all
the old guys told me how crowded and shitty it was.
thanks Anthony Ghiglia for the pics.