Friday, July 3, 2009

T-REX




Rex Huffman photographed in the late '70s by Kirk Aeder.
Big Rock was his stage...still is on the rare worthy day.
Amazing surfer. Our latter day stand up approach to riding short
fishes at the reefs is inspired by Rex's kneeboarding.
He showed us that maybe what seemed impossible was possible
on a tiny little fish. 'They're great for small mushy waves..."
yeah, right. I believe all the boards shown here were
shaped by Steve Lis...whose incredible surfing had no doubt
inspired Rex and many others 10 years earlier in '68.
photos by Aeder.

6 comments:

ShipwormAndGribble said...

Tuffest respect to the OG San Diego keel shred-innovators for enriching our surf experience...

warm jet said...

thanks for this.

Anonymous said...

GIVE US MORE!!!

RMcKnee said...

Thanks indeed. I remember that great bottom turn shot of RH from years ago; the very definition of a rail turn. The "small mushy waves" fish nonsense is as cringeworthy now as it ever was. There are still plenty of very competent kneeboarders quietly doing their thing for the pure stoke of it, far from any possibility of limelight or kudos. They constitute one of the true "soul" repositories of this glorious pastime of ours. Man + wave + riding vehicle = fun fun fun; nothing more, nothing less. Simple.

RMcKnee said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Anonymous said...

do you have anymore kneeboard storeys, images etc...we are making a book