eat my sawdust!!!!! lick my splinters!!!!! that guy on the bodyboard whipped around inside me after i was ten strokes into the wave and started calling me off at a place i've been surfing for almost 40 years. you gotta pay your dues. i have. that guy showed up about 4 years ago and gave no respect to anybody, so he gets none. im riding a finless piece of wood with no floatation and no leash, im 48 years old, i've studied every detail of the history of this spot going back 70 years. i know the elders and the groms. the breach of respect and etiquette was his, not mine. the fact that he is riding a bodyboard is irrelevant, and besides that i kicked out after the drop, he kept going. the barrel wave is a different wave altogether.
7 comments:
that guy really burned the sponge!
rules are rules
yep -rule number one: burn all sponges -especially if you can get barreled while doing it.
droppin in, not very nice :(
eef
monsterboards
ps nice ride though!
eat my sawdust!!!!! lick my splinters!!!!!
that guy on the bodyboard whipped around
inside me after i was ten strokes into the wave and started calling me off at
a place i've been surfing for almost 40 years.
you gotta pay your dues. i have. that guy showed up about 4 years ago and gave no respect to anybody, so he gets none.
im riding a finless piece of wood with no floatation
and no leash, im 48 years old, i've studied every detail of the history of this spot going back 70 years. i know the elders and the groms.
the breach of respect and etiquette was
his, not mine. the fact that he is riding a bodyboard
is irrelevant, and besides that i kicked out after the
drop, he kept going. the barrel wave is a different wave altogether.
pictures never tell the whole story it seems, and judgement is often too quick...
very nice barrel Richard!
Eef
monsterboards.org
who cares. if you know it all and have done it all it doesnt matter. ten strokes in? were riding it or still paddling? droppin in is droppin in....
yep if you have that much knowledge,and experience,that drop in wouldn`t have had to happen.What is the point?
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