Captured shortly before the last supper I believe. The 12 disciples are sitting on the shoulder as usual.
Dem bones, dem bones, dem dry bones...The light in the second pic makes him look underwater! Shine-on...
When I first move to San Diego, I think about 95. I surfed at Bird Rock on a good swell. This guy was sitting way outside far to the south. Just before a set would roll in he would paddle north right into the peak. Equipped with a vintage longboard would drop in outside, then monuver his way thru ziggies. That day I will never forget, he was so in tune with that spot. I don't think I'll ever forget it. I did't know his name before this post. About 15-20 years ago this picture appeared in mag Lonboarder. I cut it out and taped in to my refrigerator. This guy is the real thing. Thank's Bones for making another surfer in the line up smile.
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